Radu Albu se pregateste sa inceapa 2019 cu o premiera romaneasca // Getting ready for a premiere for Romania as a start of 2019
[Text in English, below the photo]
Radu se pregateste intens acum pentru o noua expeditie extrema si putin atipica, si anume cucerirea Mt. Elbrus, atat a varfului de vest 5642 m cat si a celui de est 5621 m, in conditii de iarna. El va urca pentru prima data acest munte, pe ambele lui varfuri, munte care de altfel nu il atrage in conditii de vara, fiind un traseu putin provocator. Daca va reusi, va fi o premiera pentru alpinismul romanesc, Radu si partenerul lui vor fi primii romani care vor ajunge pe ambele varfuri ale Mt. Elbrus iarna. L-am intrebat mai multe detalii legate de planurile lui pentru aceasta expeditie, iar interviul il gasiti in randurile de mai jos.
Spune-ne mai multe lucruri despre urmatoarea ta expeditie. De ce Elbrus? De ce iarna? Ce speri sa reusesti?
Urmatoarea mea expeditie este putin atipica. Am ales sa incerc sa urc pe Mt. Elbrus pentru prima data, dar in conditii de iarna, si pe ambele varfuri dominante: Elbrusul Vestic 5642 m si Elbrusul Estic 5621 m. Nu am fost tare atras de muntele acesta in sezonul de vara deoare nu il consider un munte prea provocator, chiar daca statistic vorbind e un munte cu o medie foarte mare de decese pe an. In schimb dupa ultima mea experienta la Moscova si Sankt Petersburrg anul trecut in ianuarie cand am rabdat friguri de -30 de grade in oras, m-am gandit ca Elbrus ar putea fi o provocare pentru mine in timpul iernii, mai ales datorita parcurgerii crestei spre ambele varfuri in conditii de frig extrem. Ma gandesc ca daca in Moscova sunt -30 grade in ianuarie probabil la 5600 m voi gasi un -50, -60 de grade, iar acest aspect ar face din Mt Elbrus o reala provocare pentru mine. In plus in Romania nu s-au prea facut expeditii de iarna iar urcarea pe cele doua varfuri ale Mt. Elbrus in conditii de iarna poate fi considerata o premiera pentru alpinismul romanaesc.
Mai mergi cu cineva? Vei avea ghizi locali?
In aceasta expeditie voi merge impreuna cu partenerul si colegul meu ghid montan la Extreme Expeditions, Radu Turta. Radu (da, tot Radu!) a mai urcat Vf. Elbrus (Vest) in sezonul de vara si contez pe ghidajul lui pe acest munte. Nu vom avea ghizi locali, si nu vom urca cu telecabina care urca pana 3800 m, aceasta fiind inchisa iarna.
Cat va dura aceasta expeditie? Care este traseul?
In total expeditia va dura aproximativ 14 zile. Avem nevoie de 5 zile de aclimatizare, urmand ca in functie de fereastra de vreme “buna” sa ne adaptam ascensiunea spre varf. Traseul va fi cel standard, prin sud si valea Azau. Vom porni din vale de la 2350 m, pana la refugiul Diesel 4175 m, apoi vom trece pe langa rocile Pashtuhova la 4670 m pana ajungem in creasta dintre varfuri la 5416 m si apoi spre primul varf, spre vest, la 5642 m, urmand apoi sa urcam si pe cel din est, la 5621 m.
Care crezi tu ca vor fi cele mai mari provocari?
Evident, pana nu ajungi la fata locului si nu stii cum va fi vremea, poti doar sa te gandesti la unele scenarii care pot fi mai provocatoare si sa te pregatesti pentru ele cat mai bine. Ma astept ca printre cele mai mari provocari cu care ne vom confrunta sa fie frigul extrem si vremea instabila, izolarea, crevasele imense acoperite si ascunse de zapada, si faptul ca suntem singuri pe munte, cum in sezonul de iarna foarte putin alpinisti se incumeta sa urce pe Mt. Elbrus.
Cum te recuperezi dupa Manaslu si in acelasi timp antrenezi pentru aceasta expeditie?
Perioada de recuperare dupa Manaslu a trecut, deja ma aflu in perioada de pregatire intensa pentru Elbrus. Ma antrenez cam 5 zile pe saptamana, punand accent pe exercitii cardio (aerobic si anaerobic), exercitii de forta precum si o nutritie atenta care sa favorizeze intarirea organismului si a muschilor.
De ce echipament ai nevoie pentru aceasta expeditie?
Pentru a urca pe Elbrus in conditii de iarna ai nevoie de exact acelasi echipament ca si intr-o expeditie la 8000 m. Frigul si vremea extrema, expunerea, lipsa de oxigen sunt factori care pot foarte usor duce spre hipotermie sau degeraturi. Pentru aceasta expeditie imi voi folosi costumul de puf si bocancii pentru varfurile de 8000 m. De asemenea, voi avea un sac de dormit rezistent la -40 grade Celsius.
Dincolo de a atinge varful, ce speri sa reusesti prin aceasta expeditie?
Dincolo de a-mi dori reusita acestui varf in sine, imi doresc mult sa ma apropii cat mai tare de alpinismul de iarna la altitudine. Elbrus va fi un inceput bun mai ales pentru ca vine ca si un proiect pilot pentru mine in ceea ce inseamna expeditiile la altitudine in conditii de iarna. Si da, o expeditie pe ambele varfuri ale Mt. Elbrus in conditii de iarna va fi o premiera pentru alpinismul romanesc, ceea ce e un alt lucru pe care mi-l doresc pentru viitor.
Sunt alte lucruri importante de mentionat pe care ai vrea sa le trasmiti fanilor?
In comparatie cu expeditiile izolate din Himalaya, pe Elbrus speram sa avem semnal la telefon pentru a trimite fotografii si materiale intr-un timp cat mai real. Pe fani ii rog sa stea aproape pentru ca aceasta expeditie EXTREMA ii va tine cu sufletul la gura si ochii pe Facebook 🙂
[English version]
Radu is now under intense preparation for another extreme and a bit unusual expedition, namely conquering both peaks of Mt. Elbrus in winter. He is going to climb this mountain for the first time, and he chose the winter trek, as the summer one does not appeal to him being a less challenging route. If he and his partner, also named Radu, are going to succeed, this will be a Romanian climbing premiere, the two of them will be the first Romanians to summit both peaks of Elbrus during winter: West Elbrus 5642 m and East Elbrus 5621 m. We’ve asked him a few questions about his plans for this expeditions, and you can read his answers below.
Tell us more about your upcoming expedition. Why Elbrus and why during winter? What do you hope to achieve?
My next expedition is a bit unusual. I have decided to climb both Elbrus’s peaks for my first time but during winter. I am not really attracted by this mountain during summer as I don’t think it’s a challenging one for me, even if statistically it’s a mountain with a high rate of deaths every year. Still, after my last experience in Moscow and Sankt Petersburg in January last year when I felt what -30 degrees in the city feel like, I though Elbrus could be a good challenge for me during winter. I imagine that if one can find -30 degrees in Moscow in January, we will find -50, -60 degrees at 5600 m, and this is what I consider to be challenging enough for me. Additionally, Romanian climbers haven’t climbed many mountains in winter, and climbing both Elbrus’s peaks in winter can be considered a Romanian climbing premiere.
Are you going with someone else? Will you have local guides?
I will go in this expedition together with Radu Turta, my colleague and mountain guide at Extreme Expeditions. Radu (yes, another Radu!) climbed West Elbrus peak during summer and I count on him for guiding. We won’t have local guides, and we won’t use the cable lift used during summer to go up to 3800 m, as this one is closed during winter.
How long will this expedition last? What is the route?
In total the expedition will last for approximately 14 days. We need 5 days to acclimatize, then depending on the good weather window we will adjust the final summit push. The route will be the standard one from the south and through Azau Valley. We will start in the valley at 2350 m, climb up to the Diesel Hut at 4157 m, then past the Pashtuhova Rocks at 4670 m, up to the Saddle between the peaks at 5416 m, and to the West summit at 5642 m.
Which are the biggest challenges you expect to have?
Well, obviously, until you reach the mountain and see how the weather is like, you can only think of some possible challenges and prepare for them the best way you can. I expect that amongst the biggest challenges we’ll encounter will be the extreme cold and unstable weather, isolation, the hidden crevices covered under the snow, and the fact that we will be mostly alone on the mountain, as there are not many climbers going on Elbrus during winter.
How are you recovering after the Manaslu expedition and in the same time train for this expedition?
The recovery period after Manaslu is over, I am already doing intense training for Elbrus. I train 5 days a week, doing cardio exercises (both aerobic and anaerobic), strength exercises and taking care of my nutrition to help my body and muscles gain strength.
What equipment do you need for this expedition?
To climb Elbrus in winter conditions you need the exact same equipment as for an 8000 m expedition. The cold and extreme weather, being exposed and the lack of oxygen are amongst the factors that can easily contribute to hypothermia and frostbites. For this expedition, I will use my 8000 m expedition down suit and boots. Also, I will have a sleeping bag that keeps warm in -40 degrees Celsius cold conditions.
Besides reaching the top, what else do you hope to achieve through this expedition?
Besides my wish to reach both Elbrus’s peaks, I want through this to get into altitude winter climbing as an extreme sport. Elbrus will be a good start, especially as it is one pilot project for me around what it means climbing at such altitude in winter conditions. And also, yes, a successful winter Elbrus expedition on both its West and East peaks will be a Romanian climbing premiere, and that is another one of my wishes.
Are there any other important things you’d like to say to your followers?
Compared to the isolated expeditions in Himalaya, on Elbrus, we hope to have phone signal to send photos and news in real time. To my followers, just stay close by as this EXTREME expedition will keep you excited and curious for news on Facebook 🙂
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